| Story Japan2004 created by Michael Newman |
Brett, Ben, Mike and Polly spent two weeks touring around Japan in early August 2004. The excuse for the trip was to celebrate Mike's 50th birthday, but all parties had their own reasons for going. Brett actually went for a three week homestay that preceeded and joined with this trip.These pictures come from the first third of the trip and are from Mike's perspective. About half of the pictures Mike took form this annotated slide show. About a third of the way into the trip Mikes camera died and the remainder of the trip was photographed only by Brett. Brett prepared a quick show taken from the best pictures of more than 600 frames. His show can be seen at Quickshow.
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| Brett at the Golden Pavilion |
Brett went to Japan earlier than the rest of the family for a three week homestay. He sent a few pictures back by email. Here he is in front of the Golden Pavilion (sometimes called the Golden Temple). "For those of you eagerly awaiting some news from the Far East (and those of you who aren`t, you can read as much as you`d like), I just wanted to write a quick (I hope) note to say what I`ve been doing with myself in Japan. You`ll have to excuse this not coming from my regular email address.The flight was ridiculously long as all international flights are. I stopped in DC and in Tokyo. The long leg, DC to Tokyo, was around 13-14 hours I made a great friend in the airport, Kasumi from Yokohama. So between movies, Mario, and running in and out of my seat to talk with Kasumi (and the group she was travelling with), the flight time passed quickly. Flight from Narita to Osaka was a good additional nap, since I only slept two hours out of the 14. Was met at the airport by reps from the Osaka John Mung Society, and by my host mom (Takako) and younger host brother (Yoshiki). We took a bus back to Kyoto, and had dinner once my host dad (Katsumi) and host brother (Tomonori) got back from work and school band practice (9ish Japan time). Woke in the morning, and we had breakfast soon after. After everyone went out to work and school, my host mom and I went to grab a few things at the store. Then we returned home, and went off to Yoshiki`s basketball tournament. It was some of the best basketball I`ve seen in a long time. Went out for lunch, and returned for game #2. They won both games, Yoshiki had 17 points. We returned home, went out food shopping (and quickly hit the little arcade in the department store/supermarket). Afterwards we headed home. Watched a video of Tomonori`s school band, which most reminds me of a cross between Blue Man Group and a John Williams film score (they do everything from batons, glowstick spinning,just playing, Taiko drumming, and classic American marching). They are extremely good though, and from what I can tell are one of the best in Japan. Had some dinner and then gave all the gifts from Boston. They were very well received. Slept in, and woke up after the guys left for school and work. Once I was finished with the computer, my host mom and I went out. We first went to Kinkaku-ji, the golden pavilion. It is oneof the most famous sights in Kyoto (see my picture attached). While there, we had some matcha and sweet (extra strong green tea and the special sweet that goes with it). Next we went to Ryoan-ji. This is another famous temple in Kyoto. It has an extremely famous pond that has Mandarain ducks, and an extremely famous rock garden. We finally went an area who`s name escapes me, but is near a large traditional wooden bridge. Bought a few things in the stores there, and we ate lunch. Stopped for food shopping on the way home, always fun in Japan. Watched another video of Tomo`s band, which was once again great. Had dinner (my host Mom makes great Okonomiyaki!), and then Yoshiki and I went to the neighborhood arcade/bowling alley. Everyone arrived soon after, and we all went bowling. Of course I was terrible, and ended up with about half the score of my host dad, but we had a good time nonetheless. A little more time at the arcade, and then we all headed home at around midnight. A little ice cream, and off to bed. So that`s a little look into life in Japan. I know some of you have been looking for my address and phone, so here they are. 4-403 Katsuragawa Haitsu 1-8 Kissyouin Ishiharaosada-Chou Minami-Ku, Kyoto City Kyoto 601-8383 Japan Phone- Japan country code (81? can`t remember) 075-691-8149 I`ll keep you all informed by email, by far the best way to reach me." - Brett Newman
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Here`s a picture of almost everyone. Unfortunately, I haven`t gotten a picture with Tomonori in it yet. But
from left to right is my Host brother`s friend; Yoshiki (my host brother); Me; Takako (My host mom);
and Katsumi (My Host Dad). We were at the Kyoto TV/Movie studio where they film all the Samurai TV shows.
Although most of the pictures shown here do not give the same impression, Japan is crowded. This street view is close to the norm of how may people you can expect to see.
The streets were narrow and seemed to go on endlessly.
Japan is full of lots of small details that improve the quality of life. Providing service to people in many small ways is commonplace.
Incredible food was available in many places. These decorative snail breads were found in the basement of a department store. The cost of food varies tremendously. A noodle shop might offer a meal for 700 yen while dining out in a high end restaurant can cost 10000 yen for a single entre. The basement of department stores is a common place to find economical food in great variety.
After heading to my host brother`s basketball game in
the morning, we went out to eat with some friends of
the family the Kanari`s (they hosted a student
previously on the same scholarship I`m on now I
believe). The restaurant, a Soba place, was excellent,
and is in fact owned by Mr. Kanari`s friend. We then
all went off to Sado (Tea Ceremony) at a Sado school.
The school was in a traditional style building, with a
beautiful entrance (Genkan), interior, Japanese garden in the back, and a small shrine as well.
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We were
served Matcha (the strong bright green tea) by
a student, who was under the close supervision of the
Sensei. Afterwards, we were invited to look around the
building. It turns out that the Sensei has one of the
largest tradtional doll, traditional ornament,
traditional bell toy, and traditional puppet
collections I have ever seen. There were literally
thousands of items, from tall almost Totem pole
like wooden ones, to ornate Geisha dolls. After many
pictures, goodbyes, etc, we returned to the Kanari`s
house. It turns out that Mr. Kanari is
a wonderful artist, one of the best I have ever seen
in just about everything he does. His work ranges from
musical instruments, to paintings, to sketches, to
satirical cartoons, to lacuqer funiture (he showed us
pictures of some that he spent a full year creating).
The paitence, talent, and persistence he puts into his
work truly shows as a labor of love. The passion even
made its way into his speech and body language; I
ended up having one of the most sophisticated Japanese
conversations of my life. Was an amazing time, and
I`ll be sure to keep in touch with
him.
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The main thing we did was go to Nijo-jo, the residence
of the Togugawa Shoguns. It is a large castle area
(with moat , big walls and all) with 2 smaller (by
castle standards) castles inside. The more famous,
Ninomaru-Jo, was the residence of the Togugawa
Shoguns. It begins with larger ornate reception rooms,
and as you get closer to the place where you were to
`meet` the shogun the rooms get smaller (but are still
ornate). Interestingly enough, the Shogun`s living
quarters are surprisingly small and not as lavish. It
was no wonder why the place is designated a UN
Cultural Site, it is quite beautiful. I took some
pictures, but you cannot take any inside (leaves you
all some incentive to go). On another note, I caught
some of the Red Sox Yankees game on NHK Sports. I`m
certainly proud that Boston won in front of every
Democrat there for the game (from the convention).
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This formal garden was open to the public for a fee. As best we could tell it has been in its present form for more than a hundred years.
This antique vase caught my attention. It was displayed at a small museum which was part of a formal garden. The fact that a piece like this was on display at a small family run facility accents that historical antiquity is common. To see something like this in the US you would have to go to a major art museum with guards and many galleries to search through.
Ben had favorite places, all were music stores of one kind or another. This one 'Time Bomb Records' sold used music. Both CDs and vinyl. With vinyl being exceptionally popular and valued more highly than CDs. The store was deep underground. Literally! The sign stands outside a two story staircase that leads deep into the bowls of the earth.
Although most personal travel is done by train and subway, everyone has a car. Car parking is a perennial problem with no on street parking at all. This is a car parking lot. The building is about two and a half times as wide as a car. Inside the cars drive onto a vertical conveyor which dangles thirty or forty cars in a two sided elevator. The cars are dispensed much like clothes at a dry cleaners. For some reason it is completely unacceptable to back into the street. In front of every one of these parking lots is a turntable (just barely visible here). The car backs off the elevator system and is spun around before driving off into the street.
This building is reputed to be the largest wooden structure in the world. Inside is a huge cast bronze Buddha, easily the largest bronze casting I've ever seen. Surrounding the statue are numerous other statues.
Polly had blisters on her feet. At this shrine we were told that by rubbing the appropriate part of the Budda a cure for your own ailment could be obtained. Here you see Polly rubbing the feet. It must work for a few days later Polly's blisters had healed. This small statue is in front of the largest wooden building in the world. The picture of the large temple has a little red dot at the right front which is about where this small Buddha sits.
The Buddha is surrounded by side Buddhas and sculptures of flowers and insects.
The butterfly shown in this photo is about 5 feet tall. One small detail on a large pot that flanks the immense Buddha hidden behind this pot.
The deer on the temple grounds were so friendly they could be pet like favorite dogs. The antlers felt like greasy velvet. Each deer nuzzled the people for food. They were wonderfully benign unless you were carrying food. When you had food the became slightly agressive.
Benches with carved creatures were a favorite of Polly. Walking was a major form of transportation in the hot humid weather it took quite a toll. Polly grabs a much needed rest on one of 'her' benches.
Most places displayed the food offered in representative models. The food that was delivered always matched the model as if they had a copy in the kitchen and worked hard to match it. These models also made it easy for those of us who don't read Japanese (Kanji in particular) to choose our meals. Note the prices on these huge plates of Sushi. Gorge yourself or share between two people for about $20. (Not all food was this inexpensive.)
In our first hotel, the Swisshotel in Osaka this view is taken from the breakfast dining room. The dining room is on the 8th floor and looks out on a small balcony beyond which is the city. From your seat you can see the tops of cranes above the plants, but, the rest of the city is artfully hidden.
This photo shows a simple nicety. Look carefully at the light post. It is holding up the utility wires, by 'hand'.
Brett and Ben are engaged in Taiko drumming here. On the screen they see a pattern of beats to drum. The game scores on how well each player follows the beats shown and the musical pattern is generated by the participants. Overall arcades are lively and noisy places. Incredibly popular and busy at all hours.
This is the view from our hotel window in Osaka. notice how the city goes on and on, Here it is limited only by the ring of mountains some 10 or 20 miles away.
The look of this little car was great fun. Looking carefully at the side shows the wording 'Merry Maids Duskin'. Reminds me of a similar service company back home.
On this trip We learned the difference between a cable car and a ropeway. Cable cars run on tracks. They are pulled along by a cable. On ropeways the cars hang from a rope.
The cable car goes up the mountain. This trip to Koyo-san got us to a small city atop the mountain.
The cable car had open windows and wound slowly up the mountain affording an excellent if somewhat hazy view. A single cable tied it to a matching car. They passed each other midway on an automated siding.
The map here show the shrines and things to see on Koyo-san. I'm told there are about 150 active shrines. This means shrines that have people running them. Koyo-san is famous for another kind of shrine.
Atop Koyo-san we stayed at a monestary which has been acting as a hostel for years, likely more than a century. This is the view our our window across a formal garden. In the pavilion across the way a group of 40 high school students was staying. They shared one large sleeping room.
Another view of the garden looking down our our hotel window. The monks served us meals in our rooms. Entirely vegitarian and excelent fare.
At the outskirts of town in Koyo-san you start on this trail through the woods. Each stone is a little shrine erected in the memory of an ancestor.
The path is paved with stone and goes on for miles.
On each side of the path extending hundreds of feet back into the woods are shrines. At the far end of the path is a suite of temples.
This view backs up from the window to give a sense of the room.
Dinner is served.
Ready for bed.
The monks do all of the work. The monestary is to some extent a world unto itself with us just visitors. It is my understanding that they even grow a respectable portion of the food we ate.
While the garden out our window was nice here is the central garden which is seen from the main part of the monestary.
The monks worship at 6 AM each day. The invite all to join them. I woke early and was reading in the main hall of the monestary. This lady monkette asked me to join them. I have never felt so welcomed to a 'foregin' religous ceremony. She seemed so incredibly happy that I would come to their worship, acting like it was the most wonderful thing that could happen to her.
Viewed from the side this garden lies outside the worship hall. Exactly behind the photographer taking the picture of the monkette.
In addition to the temples and shrines there are little roadside shrines. This one was a block away from our monestary.
We had a wonderful time with the fractured English that was everywhere. This one says 'Measure Rainfall an Acid Combat"
Temple restoration work is being done using traditional methods and more modern tools. The woodwork that results could have been done long ago.
Here we see more modern construction. This will be a store on a street in Kyoto. One of thousands more that all seem active. There does not seem to be much of an economic slow down. The people are constantly buying and consuming.
Other photos taken at the same time that these photos were taken can be found in the directories that these photos came from. The photos in this story came from the following directories:
BrettJapan2004
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